Saturday, May 8, 2010


I have been in Yosemite for the past week and the weather has been amazing. This is such a breath of fresh air from last year for the reason that i was here for a month and it rained for 2 weeks. With the weather being good and having more "know how" from doing Freerider last year, I am more psyched and capable of working routes. The past week has been some serious work as i have hiked to the top of El Cap 4 times in 5 days to get my stash going and to work on the Salathe Head Wall. The Head Wall is probably the most striking line I have ever tried for 2 reasons; the first being the setting (3,000 feet off the deck and over hung) if that does not make your balls go to your throat than nothing will, the second reason is the crack itself is such a incredible splitter with great varied climbing. The pitch starts off as a techy 13a on razor edges(the worst part) then goes into a great stemming and layback, from here you go into a pumpy thin hands flared splitter to a hard left leaning finger section. The final pitch is a super cool finger crack with some powerful face moves to a pod then you must bust a v6-v7 to some extruding granite holds. I would have taken some shots but as my luck goes my camera broke two months after i bought it so all i have is video. I will try and shoot some vid of this and Golden Gate when we go up again to work it out from Monday to Wednesday.

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