Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Rhino Skin Solutions Review

Climbers are expert skin abusers.  We dry our skin with chalk then pull hard on small sharp edges more days than not.  I have tried many of the skin repair options out there with minimal to no benefit.  These balms also leave you with greased fingers that would have salted even Don Juan’s game.  My good buddy and crusher Dan Mirsky pulled out Rhino Skin Solutions Repair after a particularly harsh skin-abusing day at the crag, asking “Do you want to try this?” I have never been into using creams, believing they would soften my skin.   Yet, there I was, my skin burning and no greasy salve available.  After applying Rhino Skin Solutions Repair I felt immediate relief.   It felt like when you have the perfect post-workout recovery meal- it had all the nutrients my body needed to be replenished.  



After using Rhino Skin Solutions for 4 months it has been the first skin care product from which I have seen notable benefits.  Specifically, my pinkies crack regularly especially through hard training cycles.  In that last few months, I have cracked much less as my skin has become more pliable from the Repair Cream and my tips are maintaining their skin for longer due to the Performance and Dry keeping my skin dryer. 

Rhino Skin Solutions makes 4 different products: Performance, Dry, Repair and Calm, each with a different contribution to keeping you climbing as much as your heart desires. 

Performance- With 4% methenamine versus Antihydral with 16% methenamine. Performance offers a much larger buffer between dry and moist hands.  The cream base keeps your skin healthy, pliable and dry, which is exactly the balance we are shooting for as climbers.  This has been my go to cream for day-to-day use weather it be gym sessions or outside.  I apply Performance the night before a climbing day or use it multiple times on rest days depending on how moist my skin is. 




Dry-With 8% methenamine dry gives you a bump in dryness when you need it. The best part of dry is you can apply it to all of your skin and it absorbs fast with NO RESIDUE unlike Antihydral.  When my skin is thin or I’m getting moist hands, I turn to Dry.  I have used it too frequently and, similar to Antihydral, you can overdo it.  However, as Dry haves the drying agent of Antihydral, your margin for error is wider.  You will have to find your balance since everyone has differing skin moisture.  When climbing primarily outside, I use dry often since the holds are typically more textured.  It helps to keep me holding on and I can handle dryer skin in those conditions.  With gym climbing, I back off my use of Dry.  Spray the non-greasy Dry on 8 hours before you are climbing or earlier, like when you are sitting around the campfire, spraying about your latest send, brah.    

Repair-Damn this stuff feels good! Its anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties accelerate skin healing for your next day of attempts on your route.  As a nurse, I have to wash my hands countless times a day.  It dries my hands out and since I’m climbing almost all of my days off, great amounts of skin are imperative.  Repair has helped me immensely to maintain my skin health and reduce cracks.  Throw a bottle of this in your climbing pack and use it after washing your hands post climbing or just apply after you wrap up at the crag.  One application of Repair after a long day at the crag and you will be a believer, no questions asked. 

Calm- With calming ingredients this cream sooths and relaxes you.  It feels good and smells great.  It’s a great addition to Rhino Skin Solutions products and a great compliment to Repair, especially for your days off. 

Rhino Skin reduces splits by helping you strike the perfect balance of pliable and dry skin.  This gives you more attempts on your project or keeps you climbing longer.  Give it a shot- it’s the first skin care product that really works (without salting your game).  I am a believer! 


Wednesday, October 10, 2012

El Corazon


$350 for hiking a load to the top of El Cap and Half Dome how could I say no?  Madaleine and I agreed to launch off on El Corizon in two days on 6/7.  It was 6/5 and I as hiking the first load of 40lbs. to the top of El Cap .  After a few hours I dropped off the load and Madaleine and I climbed for the day on the upper pitches of El Corizon.  After jugging out I picked up some climbing gear that was dropped off and hiked it down.  After a quick dinner I went to sleep at 11P.M. My alarm went off at 2 A.M.  and I was off hiking another 40 lbs. to the top of half Dome. What a rest day haha. 

The remaining of the day was spend packing up our haul bags.  This was going to be my first time hauling on El Cap.  We began climbing at 4:30 A.M. and climbed to mammoth fairly quickly.  This is where the hauling began and my inexperience began to show.  It took us the majority of the day to do 3 pitches to a ledge.   We both managed to figure out the beta on the first 5.13 pitch called The Beak flake for the following morning. 

Climbing up freeblast early in the morning 
Hauling is a slow but rewarding process 

The next morning we both sent the Beak Flake.  The next pitches went quicker than the previous day since we got our systems more dialed.  After a few pitches we found ourselves at the base of a 5.12d pitch that was protected almost entirely with peckers.  I fell once and then sent second try as did Madaleine.  
Madaleine crushing the crux Beak Flake 5.13b


The next pitch is called the Bunny Slop and is a 5.12c R pitch that even Alex Honnold was scared on.  While talking to Alex the word “very exciting” was said many times.   I lead out with a hammer clipped to my harness along with peakers, blades, and a bunch of other aid gear I have never used.  Clipping a blade pounded behind a flake that moved with the slightest amount of pressure I began laughing.  It was comical how awful the gear was.  I committed to the technical and delicate moves and at one point felt my body coming out from the wall.  I tensed up and was able to regain my balance saving a horrifying fall.  We spent the night here and the following morning we lead the whole corner system that included some of the best climbing on the route.  


Madaleine running it out on an amazing 5.10 R pitch

Madaleine bone crushed as she sent everything first try and some of the pitches she had not red pointed previously.  Spending the night on tower of the people was a treat with it being in an amazing position on El Cap.  The following morning we sent the two hard pitches first try and went for the summit that turned out to have one last treat for us.  Our haul line got stuck behind a block and since I linked the last pitches we where unable to hear each other.  This led to an extremely frustrating game of tug-a-war until finally our lines freed. 




Me on the jaw dropping roof pitch 5.13b


We hiked down and had a victory jump off the El Cap bridge into the Merced to cool off.  This was a great route that is fairly adventurous.  

Saturday, August 4, 2012

The Prophet


My eyes filled with water instantly, my body felt like a shaken pop bottle ready to explode with emotion and excitement as my eyes feasted on El Cap.  I began screaming out my window “El Cap mother fucker.”  It doesn’t even make since but I was back in Yosemite! It had been two years since I had felt this magical feeling.  After a nights sleep I hiked up to the top of the Prophet and tried the A1 beauty a few times. “ This pitch is nails hard I thought” after struggling to do many of the moves. 


mini traxioning the A1 Beauty  Photo Tom Evans 

In early may I felt the magical feeling again of driving into the valley and was ready to send some routes.  After a 13 hour drive from SLC I stuffed my food in a bear box and hiked up to the top of El Cap.  As I gazed out at the sunset eating dinner and drinking tea I thought how accessible El Cap is.  In one day one can drive from SLC and be on top of El Cap.  The next morning I revisited the A1 beauty and did the opening moves first try.

Hiking a load in the rain/snow

 I was stoked all the Crimp Shrine and finger strength sessions had paid off.  Over the following two weeks I fixed the route and began putting the route together.  Climbing by yourself on El Cap can get lonely but in a way it is also liberating.  You can sing to yourself and shout ridiculous shit without anyone hearing or caring if they do. 

Breakfast before rapping in

After days and days of effort I was ready to hike up to the base and climb the route with a great friend Madaleine Sorken.  It was my Birthday and as we approached the base water was pouring down the slabs.  We where forced to hang out for 2 hours to let it dry out. 
Trying to use my powers to dry the slab

another shot of the A1 Beauty Photo Tom Evans 

The first pitches went smoothly with the R pitches not bothering me as I turned my mind off and simply climbed.  By dusk we where at the Devils Reacharound that was my variation to avoid a mind boggling 7 foot sideways dyno to a side pull.  I gave The Reacharound two attempts to figure out the moves then threw in the towel for the day.  Madalaine had a surprise for me as she pulled out two cup cakes with a smile on her face.  She sang me happy birthday it was dreamy haha. 
After the Devils Reacharound with the pink power nano rope

The next day we woke up super early and after some effort I was able to send The Reacharound.  By this time the A1 Beauty was in the sun so I decided to wait until evening to give it a go.  We slept and listened to the Steve Jobs biography to kill the time. 
Waiting for the shade to come

At 5 P.M. I booted up, ripped off the tape covering my gobied finger and pulled on so hard my feet popped off.  After a few minutes of rest I pulled on again and felt great moving effortlessly while feeling feather light.  I quickly found myself at the rest before the final crux.  Breathing deeply I began climbing up the delicate moves then gritted my teeth and gave the final big move all I had screaming.  My finger gushed blood but I did not care I had sent the A1 beauty.  I screamed “I am the mother fucking pterodactyl” and then slouched in my harness and laughed. 

There was still one last pitch with a difficult boulder problem that took many attempts but I finally made the move and climbed the remaining of the pitch by headlamp.   I could finally relax completely knowing that I would not have to climb any more dangerous R pitches. 

Madaleine and I are currently in the JFK airport on my way to Kyrgyzstan to climb some of this stuff.   I will try to update if internet is available.

Cheers!









Monday, March 19, 2012

Boulder Must'a Been High 5.13c R/X and China Doll 5.14a R

I have an amazing school schedule right now where I have class one day a week!  The last few weeks I have been trying to take advantage of what could be my last free time before Nursing School starts (if I get in).  The valley looked really good a few weeks ago so I went out to try the prophet and it is very hard.  Much harder than I had expected.  The A1 Beauty is perfect rock and an incredible pitch but it gets wet in the spring from horsetail falls so it seems like a fall mission is necessary.  I would be really psyched to give that route a BIG effort.
 The A1 Beauty


After some snow I met up with some friends at the recently opened Jailhouse.  This crag is a savior for the valley.  You can climb in heinous rain and many times it will be raining or snowing in the valley and the Jailhouse will be sunny.  After this short stay I had to jet back to SLC to take a test and then right after my test I cam out to Boulder.
 Jailhouse

 Horses at JH



Candy Store in Sonora, Ca


 A whole Wonka room haha

 Studying in the Meadow
 Fashion hula hooping
 First Flat Iron makes for one great rest day activity


  This town is funny in more ways than one with the excessive amounts of overpriced grocery stores filled with $1500 cars but people are buying $5 apples haha.  I guess to each his own.  One Friday night I went on a stroll around Perl street and stumbled in a outdoor store that was filled with people and loud music.  When I entered my jaw dropped there was a fashion show going on and all I can say is WOW.  On the other hand there was Avery beer and Hors d'oeuvres that made the ridiculousness more bearable.


The Rincon wall is an amazing piece of rock that is great in winter sun and is stacked with hard gear routes.  After warming up a Brad, Cody, and I went to work on Must'a Been High.  I figured all the moves out on my first burn and then surprisingly sent on TR on my second try.  After sending on TR I knew there was only one thing to do and that was to pull the trigger and lead the rig.  I fell low after clipping the knife blade my first go and made some minor tweaks to my beta then sent next try.  I was supper excited with having drove to Boulder getting in at 3 A.M. and sleeping for 5 hours and then sending this route in a day.
 Must'a Been High

Video of me on the crux 

The next route on my list was China Doll.  This route is five stars in anyones book both aesthetically speaking and climbing wise.  Brad and I went to work TRing this pitch and we figured out all the beta and after a few days I was ready to give it a go.  I kept climbing fairly effortlessly through the 5.13c section and then falling at the same move the first day.  Knowing I was not fully recovered from the many TR laps a rest day was in order.  I went to the Boulder Library for some studying and did a evening solo of the First Flat Iron which is a must do classic 5.6.
China Doll(Fred Marmsater Photo)
Must'a Been High upper section

On 3/18 Brad, Anthony, Angela, Fred, and Joe went out to Upper Dream Canyon.  When we rapped in to China Doll we were shocked to see a party of aid climbers all racked up and ready to aid the line.  My stomach sank because they were there first and had the right to the line.  After talking to them for a ten min. or so they graciously let us have the line.  THANK YOU SOOO MUCH for your generosity!  After my first burn I noticed how rope drag was killing me for the upper crux so I make some changes to the gear.  I started to climb and felt very good flowing through the crux of the 5.13c, however, I got to the spot where you are run out and noticed that I forgot the green Alien SHIT!  I told myself it was fine I have never fallen here so I kept climbing being 25 feet above my last piece.  Finally after a few move I was able to place a .75 and continued to the rest.  While resting I decided to undo the tape around my pointer finger even though I had a large gobi.  At the rest I again forgot a .4 so I only had one good piece but once again I decided to go for it!   Feeling good I punched it and hit the good lock jacked my foot up and then another problem.... The rope was behind my leg.  I tried to get the rope around my foot but was unable to and my pump was growing fast.  I just went for it climbing well and confidant to the top of the difficult section.  Whoo Hooo I shouted and this is where I was supposed to place a green c3 but of course I forgot that piece as well.  There where some pieces left for directionals but I did not want to make my ascent a pink point so I climbed the rest of the 5.11 with not gear risking a MEGA ride onto a purple c3.  Getting to the anchor felt incredible because I was safe and sent the route haha.


County Club Crack is not doubt a classic

Anthony and I finished off the day with a run up The Sting and Country Club Crack both very fun classics in Boulder Canyon.  After climbing we drove down to Avery for some celebratory beers.  Drinking Avery beer makes you aware of not being in Utah that is for SURE!

Send Beers at Avery!

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Wonderboy FFA 5.13c R

I did this FFA back in August but with my school schedule being so heinous I have not had any extra time, so better late than never right?  

The sport climbing life is relaxing and pretty casual especially in some areas.  For these reasons it feels great to just hang out with good friends and climb without feeling overwhelmed by the day ahead.  However, I have always found that too much of a good thing can get monotonous and leave me feeling somewhat empty inside.  This emptiness comes from lack of adventure and hard blue collar work.  This is were bigger routes with big approaches come in to pack my body full of satisfaction.

The amazing 5.9 intro pitch with perfect patina climbing (photo Andrew Burr)

Some good friends of mine aided the Wonderwall a while back and had great things to say about the rock quality and they were also optimistic about the route going free.  I decided to check the line out so I rapped into the wall and was blown away by the aesthetic nature of the line and the amount of orange lichen.  Being so smittened by the line I went right to work scrubbing the wall and forgot about how strong the alpine sun is on your skin.  I turned into a tomato with blisters but the line was clean and ready to be worked out.  After a few more trips up to Lone Peak the route began to come together and I was ready to lead the line.  There was however, one major issue, the line is a seem in many parts and lacks the ability to place any gear.

The technical stemming begins on the 5.11+ second pitch (photo Andrew Burr)

After talking to some of the other locals I decided to try to hammer in a pecker.  Tommy Caldwell does it on El Cap so what the hell I should be fine.  That night it rained buckets but we woke up to a beautiful morning so I went for it anyway.  The first two pitches are incredible climbing and make for a great warm up and I was psyched up and ready to crush.  working my way up to the first crux I took some deep breaths clipped the pecker, grabbed the crimp, brought my foot up to the smear and then I was flying through the air along with the crimp.  "F**k", I screamed as I was sure the route would be close to imposible now but the pecker held and looked good.  I looked down at Ari and said "this pecker is a bolt." After recomposing myself and coming to terms with what had happend I began to try and suss out a new sequence and with some feet you need a magnifying glass to see I was able to find another way.  I had fallen on the pecker repeatedly at this point and decided to do the section one more time and fell and before I knew it I was standing besides Ari, my belayer.

Me and Rob taking a breather before the crux (photo Andrew Burr)

"I guess peckers are not bolts", I said to Ari and started laughing.  Ari and I climbed to the summit and called it a day.  It was back to the drawing board with the question of gear and I decided to try out knife blades instead.  Another hike up the hill by myself, although, time spent by myself helps to clarify what truly makes me happy in life.  The next day I rapped into the Wonderwall took special care to make sure that every knife blade was placed perfect and hammered until it sang like a bird.  Then I began to perfect my beta and was able to send the line on minitraxion twice in two days.  I knew it was time to give this beast another go.



Getting partners to hike 5 miles with 5,500 ft. of elevation gain is quite hard and a week passed with people bailing on me.   My good luck charm belayer Rob Duncan was up for going last weekend.   With a not so wonderful 5 a.m. wake up to beat the sun we got started and were below the crux pitch by 8 a.m.  This gave me 2 hours to try the pitch before it was in the sun.  My first go was good but my body was not in the right position for the balancy crux move.  The second go I felt great, although I missed the foothold.  The third go I felt extremely solid and was climbing well my body position was perfect and I nailed the desperate foot move and rocked my way up to success to the crimp.  I made sure to take my time at the rest and then blast through the remaining technical climbing to the top of the pitch where I gained the enormous smile that I still have.

I decided to name the free line Wonderboy 5.13c hahaha


(photo Andrew Burr)

Summit shot (photo Andrew Burr)
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Friday, August 12, 2011

Summer Fun!

Summer is a bit of a double edged sword in SLC and many other places as well.  With the better weather comes the heat and forces us to suck it up and enjoy climbing for the movement and try and be less fickle about "perfect temps."  These are the reasons that SLC climbers gravite towards Maple Canyon in the heat of the summer.   Maple offers climbable temps and fun movement PEROID and that is how you have to think of it.  After two weekends of the Pipe Dream I was over the crowds and I sent Millennium so I was happy to move on.  The Compound is a great cliff that is a bit of a hybrid between Box Canyon and the Pipe Dream with many hard routes that are mostly nails hard for the grade.  It is quite refreshing after the fluff of the Pipe Dream.  The grades rage from about 5.11d to 13d and some red tags(boo).  

It was great climbing with John Starr, Kristin, Clay, Rosie, Reid, Ann, Lief, Lindsey, and Kim for a few weeks.  In the end I managed to do most of the routes there and had a great time.

Hanging out till the sun leaves the cliff.  AHHH sport climbing laziness 
Breakfast of Champions

Clay trying to make the "Fat Laydy Sing" one of the best 13c's in Maple
More of the Fat Lady
Starr on another incredible 13c TSS


After weeks at Maple I was ready for some adventure and Lone Peak was just becoming climbable.  This was due to the Wasatch having a record snow fall and delayed the normal access to the area by about a month.  The first day up I humped a load of about 70 pounds up the 5,500 feet of elevation gain and it was a total bone crusher.  It probably did not help that I left the trailhead at 9:30 P.M. (I am an IDIOT!)  The next day I ran into my friend Ari and I was able to get the second ascent of Jonathan Knights route.  It is great with very technical climbing that requires perfect body positioning and a cool head to say the least at 5.13a.  Ari also had some good burnes and will do it soon I am sure.  I then went to work on a line in the middle of the question mark route and JK route.  This thing is MEGA just under vert climbing and will be the hardest route I have done if I can put it together.

The following day I raped into the Wonder Wall that is a classic aid line that goes at A3.  I worked out the moves and I hope I can put it all together this weekend!  Psyched!!!!!

 The pig Argggg!
 Pretty lights
 Boosting moral or attempting to on the brutal approach 
 Finally sleep or not since I got eaten alive by mosquitoes 
 There she is

 Ari on JK Route, Oh and is that old school trad master top ropeing?  just kidding Ari
 Sickness!
The Wonder Wall A3 and soon to be FREEEEEE (I hope)
 Some people crushing the Undone Book
 Not a bad view eh?

 Chilling on the bad ass ledge of the Wonder Wall
 Some of my good friends came up to summit and I  hung a rope so they could try get a tast of the best granite in the Wasatch. 

Some frisbee fun!