Nik Berry

Wonderboy FFA 5.13c R

2011-12-25T13:55:00.000-08:00

I did this FFA back in August but with my school schedule being so heinous I have not had any extra time, so better late than never right?

The sport climbing life is relaxing and pretty casual especially in some areas. For these reasons it feels great to just hang out with good friends and climb without feeling overwhelmed by the day ahead. However, I have always found that too much of a good thing can get monotonous and leave me feeling somewhat empty inside. This emptiness comes from lack of adventure and hard blue collar work. This is were bigger routes with big approaches come in to pack my body full of satisfaction.

The amazing 5.9 intro pitch with perfect patina climbing (photo Andrew Burr)

Some good friends of mine aided the Wonderwall a while back and had great things to say about the rock quality and they were also optimistic about the route going free. I decided to check the line out so I rapped into the wall and was blown away by the aesthetic nature of the line and the amount of orange lichen. Being so smittened by the line I went right to work scrubbing the wall and forgot about how strong the alpine sun is on your skin. I turned into a tomato with blisters but the line was clean and ready to be worked out. After a few more trips up to Lone Peak the route began to come together and I was ready to lead the line. There was however, one major issue, the line is a seem in many parts and lacks the ability to place any gear.

The technical stemming begins on the 5.11+ second pitch (photo Andrew Burr)

After talking to some of the other locals I decided to try to hammer in a pecker. Tommy Caldwell does it on El Cap so what the hell I should be fine. That night it rained buckets but we woke up to a beautiful morning so I went for it anyway. The first two pitches are incredible climbing and make for a great warm up and I was psyched up and ready to crush. working my way up to the first crux I took some deep breaths clipped the pecker, grabbed the crimp, brought my foot up to the smear and then I was flying through the air along with the crimp. "F**k", I screamed as I was sure the route would be close to imposible now but the pecker held and looked good. I looked down at Ari and said "this pecker is a bolt." After recomposing myself and coming to terms with what had happend I began to try and suss out a new sequence and with some feet you need a magnifying glass to see I was able to find another way. I had fallen on the pecker repeatedly at this point and decided to do the section one more time and fell and before I knew it I was standing besides Ari, my belayer.

Me and Rob taking a breather before the crux (photo Andrew Burr)

"I guess peckers are not bolts", I said to Ari and started laughing. Ari and I climbed to the summit and called it a day. It was back to the drawing board with the question of gear and I decided to try out knife blades instead. Another hike up the hill by myself, although, time spent by myself helps to clarify what truly makes me happy in life. The next day I rapped into the Wonderwall took special care to make sure that every knife blade was placed perfect and hammered until it sang like a bird. Then I began to perfect my beta and was able to send the line on minitraxion twice in two days. I knew it was time to give this beast another go.

Getting partners to hike 5 miles with 5,500 ft. of elevation gain is quite hard and a week passed with people bailing on me. My good luck charm belayer Rob Duncan was up for going last weekend. With a not so wonderful 5 a.m. wake up to beat the sun we got started and were below the crux pitch by 8 a.m. This gave me 2 hours to try the pitch before it was in the sun. My first go was good but my body was not in the right position for the balancy crux move. The second go I felt great, although I missed the foothold. The third go I felt extremely solid and was climbing well my body position was perfect and I nailed the desperate foot move and rocked my way up to success to the crimp. I made sure to take my time at the rest and then blast through the remaining technical climbing to the top of the pitch where I gained the enormous smile that I still have.

I decided to name the free line Wonderboy 5.13c hahaha

(photo Andrew Burr)

Summit shot (photo Andrew Burr)

Summer Fun!

2011-08-12T12:44:00.000-07:00

Summer is a bit of a double edged sword in SLC and many other places as well. With the better weather comes the heat and forces us to suck it up and enjoy climbing for the movement and try and be less fickle about "perfect temps." These are the reasons that SLC climbers gravite towards Maple Canyon in the heat of the summer. Maple offers climbable temps and fun movement PEROID and that is how you have to think of it. After two weekends of the Pipe Dream I was over the crowds and I sent Millennium so I was happy to move on. The Compound is a great cliff that is a bit of a hybrid between Box Canyon and the Pipe Dream with many hard routes that are mostly nails hard for the grade. It is quite refreshing after the fluff of the Pipe Dream. The grades rage from about 5.11d to 13d and some red tags(boo).

It was great climbing with John Starr, Kristin, Clay, Rosie, Reid, Ann, Lief, Lindsey, and Kim for a few weeks. In the end I managed to do most of the routes there and had a great time.

Hanging out till the sun leaves the cliff. AHHH sport climbing laziness

Breakfast of Champions

Clay trying to make the "Fat Laydy Sing" one of the best 13c's in Maple

More of the Fat Lady

Starr on another incredible 13c TSS

After weeks at Maple I was ready for some adventure and Lone Peak was just becoming climbable. This was due to the Wasatch having a record snow fall and delayed the normal access to the area by about a month. The first day up I humped a load of about 70 pounds up the 5,500 feet of elevation gain and it was a total bone crusher. It probably did not help that I left the trailhead at 9:30 P.M. (I am an IDIOT!) The next day I ran into my friend Ari and I was able to get the second ascent of Jonathan Knights route. It is great with very technical climbing that requires perfect body positioning and a cool head to say the least at 5.13a. Ari also had some good burnes and will do it soon I am sure. I then went to work on a line in the middle of the question mark route and JK route. This thing is MEGA just under vert climbing and will be the hardest route I have done if I can put it together.

The following day I raped into the Wonder Wall that is a classic aid line that goes at A3. I worked out the moves and I hope I can put it all together this weekend! Psyched!!!!!

The pig Argggg!

Pretty lights

Boosting moral or attempting to on the brutal approach

Finally sleep or not since I got eaten alive by mosquitoes

There she is

Ari on JK Route, Oh and is that old school trad master top ropeing? just kidding Ari

Sickness!

The Wonder Wall A3 and soon to be FREEEEEE (I hope)

Some people crushing the Undone Book

Not a bad view eh?

Chilling on the bad ass ledge of the Wonder Wall

Some of my good friends came up to summit and I hung a rope so they could try get a tast of the best granite in the Wasatch.

Some frisbee fun!

Lunar X Free 5.13 FFA

2011-04-25T08:03:00.000-07:00

Being in school has forced me to stay more local with my climbing, which I am fine with. I live 4.5 hours from Zion and have not climbed there much at all. During spring break I was psyched to start looking for new free routes and the first one I rapped seemed like it would go. I spent the next few days mini traxioning the line and fell in love with this route. The meat of the route is in three pitches, the 1st being a boulder problem traverse pitch, 2nd a beautiful splitter that involves tight fingers, fingers, and some powerful face climbing as well, the 3rd hard pitch is a twin seem that takes small gear and is mostly face climbing with a few finger locks.

Putting in my first bolt!

The traversing boulder problem pitch that allows access to the amazing crux pitch

Giving'er on the boulder problem

Up high on the crux pitch

Starting off on the final 5.13 pitch

The season in Zion was less than desirable for the reason of VERY sporadic weather for instance one weekend I rapped into the route and was caught in a blizzard. By the time I jugged out there was 4 inches of snow on the ground. The following weekend the high was 86 degrees.

The weather coming in

Last Saturday was great though with a high of 70 and cloudy (this route gets a lot of sun so clouds=good) everything was lined up to send. After warming up I took one burn and fell then rested and fired it off. The next pitch went easier than expected but the gear is a bit tricky. After doing these pitches I was overwhelmed with joy I thought it was just going to be a joy ride to the top. WRONG, the upper pitches were very sandy and I had not done them before. Even though they were moderate the gear is not great and it is certainly run out! On the last pitch I thought I would take the overhanging obvious finish that looked super classic but it turned out to be a sandy mess. I broke a large hold off that caused me to fall and I just wanted to be done. After that I was over it and just wanted to finish this beast off! I climbed the regular finish (a different variation) and again it was SO sandy. There was one finger lock that took multiple up and down climbs to commit to. Once I finally committed my hand popped out and next thing I knew I was hanging upside down and my heal was throbbing like it was hit with a sludge hammer. It took me some time to realize I had fallen and hit the ledge below me. At this point I was getting mad and took some time to compose myself and then finished it off. With a huge relief to just be on top and finished with an amazing route felt incredible. This is the first time I have established a FFA and what a route to do it on. This has been a huge learning experience for me and I can not wait to keep looking for new lines. This was not a one day ascent but for the reason that the rock quality on the lower pitches that deviate from the original aid line are very loose I was not psyched on climbing them again. Climbing is something I do for fun and if I know I will not be having fun I don't see the point. Please dont let the less than desirable pitches deter you from doing this route because the crux pitches are INCREDIBLE! I have to thank Sterling for the static lines that made it possible for me to work this route and of course the nano for the sending line, La Sportiva for the best shoes, Black Diamond for incredible equipment, and last but certainly not least all of my friends who helped me out with this route. Thank you so very much you are all the BEST!!!

Photos courtesy of Jeremiah Watt http://www.jeremiahwattphotography.com/

This is AMAZING!!!!!

2011-03-02T09:10:00.000-08:00

This cracked me up if you have not seen this give it a shot.

WOW its been A WHILE

2011-02-25T17:21:00.000-08:00

It has been so long since my last update that I have decided to just post a bunch of pictures from Thanksgiving to now. So here we go...

Thanksgiving line up

My aunts and mom with their bump its putting Snookie to shame

I guess its time to leave the Red

In Chatty its cold..This is our attempt to melt our water

Pretty

Space slab is so classic and fun

we accidentally went to a gay bar and they had a drag contest so AMAZING

went crag checking on a snowy day looked sick

Little rock city

Ouray for the ice fest

Damn good breakfast and cheap

Ribbon solo was sick and sooo fat

Bird brain boulevard with Hayden. It was a great day with a good friend in the mountains.

Da comp

These guys were fucking bad ass. They were pouring Macallan 12 yr. in their beer all night. They even gave us some, thanks guys loved it.

one hell of a chocolate shop

Yummm

Packing for Iceland!!! Burr giving peter what peter want

Cant leave without the PINK

Peter just realized he left his computer...Shhhhhit

Load em up boys

Flight numbero uno

Some shut eye for the Greek

A cool mirror in Baaaaston

We missed our flight and Andy is PSYCHED!

At least we each got our own baller hotel rooms

Oh and a comped dinner

finally we are in Iceland

rallying the rental

hiking up to do some dry tooling with water pouring down on us

Thats WEIRD

A geyser

this thing freezes oh what could have been

a cool deal by our hotel

drying our stuff

No ice so lets Party

MMMM what to choose

a cool shipyard

best part of the trip

going hot tubbing

Peter got a ticket there goes $300 pay on the spot

How the fuck do I say that (its a national park)

cool icebergs

right before this shot a wave came in and almost took me out

the peak we could have climbed looks sick

Poney

a 40 dollar hot tub

Superbowl pre game party BBQ on the GWI

get that beer up here boy

I have been doing a lot of bouldering and power training in the gym lately. Its been years since I have tried to gain some power so I am psyched to be making some gains but Zion is on my mind. It is so close and with being in school it is the best option for me. Unfortunately the weather has sucked ass the last few weekends so I have not been able to make it down yet but I hope to soon. I have some cool ideas if the weather shapes up.

Rocktoberfest

2010-10-12T08:18:00.000-07:00

The Rocktoberfest is an amazing celebration at an equally amazing climbing area held to raise funds to purchase crags. There was a great turnout with many psyched climbers all sharing there love for the sport. Black Diamod and Sterling were out representing and showing there support to help keep the Red open for us all to enjoy. The activities were endless with movies, jousting, slideshows, clinics, food and my favorite beer. Here are a few pics of the fun that was had!!!

Me and litte Mark Ventura (not so little) enjoying the jousting

Plenty of delicious Avery beer on tap!!!!!!

Grip that hold NINJA!!! The dyno comp

Black Diamond booth got raped and pillaged jk they cleaned it out to stop the supper stealth stealing missions

Sterling with their incredible Rope Recycling Program getting taken advantage of by many people check it out at http://www.sterlingrope.com/recycle

Ping Pong session getting serious, psych!! Not really its all fun at the Rocktoberfest

I will leave you with a shot of one of the most b-e-a-utiful walls at the Red being Gold Coast

The Red

2010-10-03T05:05:00.000-07:00

I have been in Kentucky for about 2 weeks now. The weather started out very hot with highs in the 90's, however, the last few days have been very nice and it looks like the heat has past. This place is incredible with perfect rock, perfect grips, and perfect movement. I dont know how it could get any better than this. The last week I started working at Miguels, which has been great the people are all super nice and motivated. It seems like everyone is psyched and it is instilling a vibe that can only push everyone to climb there best.

At first I tried to just keep to the Undertow wall which is so stacked with classics it is unbelievable. I figured that would be the best way to get fit and help me stay psyched while waiting for the better temps. I feel good now and have done a few of the cave routes and some fun onsights at the Undertow. The problem now is that I need to make the next step in fitness to do my project and I hope I have the juice. Well I am out got to do some climbing and the psych is supa high(I hope it is not all coffee buzz). I will leave ya with a few pics from the trip so far enjoy.

The classic OW area I have not been to Vedauwoo. Another day I hope

Nebraska is the most HEINOUS drive ever. One road and zero hills=boring

There are a bunch of weird lakes by the road though??

The first hotel room I have ever bought but 15 hours of driving warrants a room

Cool bridge over the M-i-s-s-i-s-s-i-p-p-i or I think this is the one

Fall foliage already coming in

YAAAA I am here finally and look at the size of that sign

So stoked to be climbing at the load

Dan enjoying his mid day almond snack

Birdie being silly with the "stick bug"

Classic Kentucky all I can do is laugh HAHAHA

Working at Miguels

Lone Peak

2010-08-27T16:26:00.000-07:00

I went to Lone Peak for the first time and it was great. The whole time i was up there I could not stop wondering why I had not made the journey up there before. The rock is top notch, climbing is great, and last but not least the hang is about as good as it gets. Plop your tent down in the middle of the the meadow and it will be perfectly flat and being in the middle of a gorgeous cirque is not bad either.

The Question Mark route

A pretty fun 11a R that packs a bit of spiccceeee

High Performance 5.12+ PG13

I was fortunate enough to get the second ascent of this rig. Props to Noah Bigwood for putting this great seam up for us all to enjoy.

After the crux of High Performance and I am jazzed to get that bomb finger lock.

More good seam climbing on HP

Some amazing climbing on the Center Thumb 5.9+. This section has giant patina jugs every where.

Another shot of The Question Mark Route

I got to finish off the day with a solo of the Low Route 5.8 that is one of the best few pitch 5.8's I have ever done. My friend Perter was just ahead of me so we got to bull shit the whole way, which made it fun. When we got back to camp the crew had steaks that were just getting done with jalapeno's, garlic, PBR, and whiskey. I dont think it gets much better than that in the alpine. Thank you everyone for the great time up there and I hope it is not the last time we do that.

Salathe Check, all Yosemite goals Check

2010-07-01T18:51:00.000-07:00

Our plan to tackle the Salathe was to get a alpine start in hopes of getting to the boulder problem in the shade because the valley was heating up quick. 90 degrees is not sending temps so we had to do what we could to make the climbing easier. We started climbing at about 3:3-4 A.M. We simuled up to the Monster in 2 blocs Cody Sims leading Freeblast and I took it to the Alcove. The Monster seems to feel every time I do it so maybe one day I will be able to do it like a man and leave the wrecking-ball 6 Camelot behind. We made good time and Cody was able to give the boulder problem a few goes before the sun hit but we both ended up sending in the sun but the wind was a blowin so it was fine. We made it to the bloc by 1:30 so we got a nice nap. Once we began going through our stuff we found what I first thought was piss. I knew Kate and Madeline had just done Freerider with Mikey Schaefer Shooting them so I was thinking they fucked with us by leaving this behind real funny. Then i opened it up, smelled, and my eyes blasted open "Fuck Ya" I said to Cody its whiskey. As it turned out Mikey hooked it up. Thank you soooooo much Mikey you are The Man. We spent the rest of the day eating and drinking for we had a ridiculous amount of food. I think we could have spent a week up there and still gained weight on the wall. The next day was a rest day and we just jammed out to tunes and chilled or should I say sizzled(it was hot as hell). The 3rd day we woke up at 5 packed up and got climbing the corners where wet as ever but we got through them and the roof and were standing at the base of the headwall. I could really feel the pressure for the reason that it was so warm we knew each of us only had one go before the pitch went into the sun and then it would be unclimbable. We would have to wait a full day just to try the thing again. The lower 13a part felt relatively easy so i was stoked on that and i did feel a little pump but nothing major through the easier section. As I started to climb through the flared fingers to hands i still felt good. The bulge has always felt like the crux for me so i rested and went. I felt like i was going to fall out of every jam. The heat made it greasy as shit but i sum how got through it to upper finger splitter and that felt supper easy and then i got the bad ass bat hang and de pumped. the upper part went easily except for me being retarded and putting my foot too low and almost not being able to reach the pin scar but i barley snagged the hold and sent. I was sooo psyched. I then rapped down and belayed Cody as he sent the headwall Ledge to Ledge too. This is the first team free with both parties leading the headwall ledge to ledge and we are very happy and grateful to have done it. We then had to haul a full 600ft. up to Long Ledge so shitty that is why I dont haul but i did do some innovative hauling techniques. The 12a sport pitch is sick and is so fun after the stressful headwall. Once on top we ate a excessive amount of trail mix that was amazing because all the chocolate melted and made it into clumpy goodness. Going down sucked with massive pack but all is good when you just sent the Salathe ledge to ledge.

Poaching the Marriott internet

Driving home in Blue( my van) your my boy Blue

Chilling on the ledge

Team Free of Salathe ledge to ledge summit shot!!!!!!

Hauling ze shit down

Me sending the headwall such a good pitch

Our Pad. Nothin but luxury for us

Pouring the whiskey Mikey left use into Tweety THANKS MIKEY!!!!

Untitled from Nik Berry on Vimeo.

Check out my sweet hauling technique( I have no idea how to haul so this was some mandatory improvisation) and the Rock Paper Scissors match for who carries the poo.

Salathe-Ledge to Ledge

2010-06-24T12:12:00.000-07:00

Last year after doing Freerider we had to rap the route to get all of our stashed goodies on the route and we went down the Salathe headwall. Rapping this pitch sparked a psych for a route that I have never had before so this pitch as been in the back of my head for over a year now. When I got out to the Valley this season I began working this route right away and it was not easy. I had to slog my 200 meter cord up to the top with all my other sleeping stuff but it was all well worth the work. After numerous working sessions I put it down first go on lead and was amazingly stoked. The more work you put into a route the greater the reward and this was no exception to that rule. Luckily for Miah and myself he came out to shoot the send and here are some pics of me on the headwall and the sick roof pitch below. Now Cody Sims and I are heading up on Saturday to go from the ground and I just hope the weather is not too hot for us but it should be ok.

P.S. one shot is of the A5 traverse

Freerider in a day

2010-06-11T08:19:00.000-07:00

Doing Freerider in a day has been on my mind since I sent the route last year. I think almost everyone that frees an El Cap line thinks of doing it in a day after they send. Finding someone that is psyched to give up 2 days (the support day and a rest day) to support you seems to be difficult. On a rest day on El Cap Bridge I was talking to Mason about how i was supper psyched to try Freerider in a day and he expressed interest in doing it as well. So we pounded fists and just like that we both had our jugging bitches to give freeing El Cap in a day a shot. Last Monday 6/7 I worked the headwall and then the next day Mason and Clay came up to the top to rap the Freerider to get the pitches dialed. The upper corner was still a little wet but after this extremely wet spring the wetness does not affect me because it is almost expected. The boulder problem is completely dry and there is a new "aggressively cleaned" undercling/pocket. I still used the double dyno beta but the pocket makes it a bit easier to set up. Ideally I would have liked to take two rest days before I went for the rig but my friend Miah is coming into town on the 12th and he is amped to shoot at the top of the Captain so I just took one rest day. On Thursday Mason and I woke up at 2 A.M. and started climbing at 3:30 for some reason it always takes longer than you think to get started. This was going to be my first time having someone jugging for me and being my full on supporter as well as being my first time short fixing. We ran up Freeblast in 2 hours or less and were at the Alcove in 4.5 hours. I was psyched for the reason that i was hoping for 5-6 hours to the Alcove and I thought that was ambitious. We took a 20 min. break and eat some food and pizzed some stashed water but little did we know there was a cluster of all clusters on the Spire. I got to the Spire and no one had started climbing but they would not let me pass. Another party started climbing and took there time leading the OW and i got antsy and just started climbing behind him. There where 7 ropes going up this pitch at the same time WTF. After this we where out in front and ready to keep up out pace. At The Boulder Problem i could feel my core was a bit week and made the technical part more difficult but I redialed it in and sent 3rd try. The Sewer pitch was dripping like made so I made the choice to go shirtless to keep my shirts dry. At parts i would reach up for a hand jam and water would be streaming down my arm and the rest of my body. I got more pumped on this pitch than any so far. At the top i shivered and shook all my energy away. The climbing after felt much harder. The corner pitches went well and I had to hang out a while on the 12a traverse at the end and try to figure out what to do but I sent. It was an amazing day and I finished in 12:30 so i was supper stoked on that since I was estimating that 15 hours would be good for me. We made it down in plenty of time for ice cream, Cobras, and Pizza. Thank you so much Mason for being such a bad ass jugger and supporter you killed it and busted your ass for me and I really appreciate it. I will do the same for you in a few day when you CRUSH IT.

Golden Gate is GRRRRRRRRReat!

2010-05-23T09:08:00.001-07:00

So me and joe did Golden Gate at it was amazing to do the route with conditions the way they were. We rapped in and checked out the Golden Desert pitch and the A5 but we left the rest up to chance. This was for the reason that Joe did not have much time and it was fun having some unknown in the route. The first day we climbed up to the 12c down climb and fixed our lines. Day 2 we sent the down climb once we abandoned some horrible beta of double thumb pressing. We finished off the day by running up some scary 5.10 pitches and fixing to the top of The Move pitch. Day three was a planned rest day and it would have been anyway because it dumped rain. The forecast called for 80% chance of rain and it turned out to be raining the whole day. I used a BD tripod tent and did not set up the poles like a true DUMB ASS. The result was me getting soaking wet. Just as i was really wanting to bail I went into the alcove cave and it was dry so i was able to warm up and that really helped the psych. Joe and i made some nice hot coffee and felt much better. The next day it was clear but cold so we hung out a while and had 2 french presses of coffee and 2 breakfasts YUM! We jugged to the top of the move and it stumped me at first then Joe figured out the trick. You have to use the meat of your palm and pinch with a index finger wrapped around the top of the hold and it felt very bizarre but not too hard. After we both sent this pitch it started raining again so we chilled on the ledge for a while and luckily it passed and we where able to get some more pitches in. We made it up the the Tower to the People and fixed down. The following day was more draining than we expected. We got up at 5:30 and got are shit together and started jugging to The Tower to the People. This took some time and due to the how steep this part of the wall is it was much more taxing than we expected as well. I lead the Golden Desert pitch and the A5 traverse with wet holds and all. We had to chalk the hell out of them and it felt much harder than it should have if it was dry but we maned up and sent. The following pitch is a 12a traverse that felt kind of hard and then it was the incredible razor-blade pitches to a kind of scary and strange 11b ending. We got to the top and tried to hurry for we wanted to make the pizza deck before it closed so we started reapping and thanks to Stanley and Eric it went faster than expected at 3:30 min. Not bad. Overall it was an amazing route with lots of traversing but also fun climbing on mostly great rock.

A frog at The Alcove how it got there i have no idea but with the excessive amounts of rain staying alive is not problem.

Our pre climb grub

Me on The Monster

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The aftermath of The Monster OW

Enjoying our Mountain House dinners that Joe brought after our first day. 23 pitches makes a man hungry.

The 12c slab down climb that is actually pretty cool even though it sounds retarded. The crux hold has a rad thumb catch with a two finger micro crimp on top.

Almost ready to throw in the towel due to being soaked and the rain showing no signs of stopping.

We had to retreat to the Alcove Cave where it smelled like shit because some Euro trash party was dropping bombs off the side. Even though it smelled bad Joe and i were stoked just to be dry after 5 hours of hellish rain.

Finally Blue sky and a 12 hour weather window to put the route down

Summit shot SO HAPPY!

after rapping and getting our shit. Feeling a little on the beat side.

Red Point Amber Ales after an amazing day

Pizza and Beer never tasted so good

YO-sem-ITE

2010-05-08T19:11:00.000-07:00

I have been in Yosemite for the past week and the weather has been amazing. This is such a breath of fresh air from last year for the reason that i was here for a month and it rained for 2 weeks. With the weather being good and having more "know how" from doing Freerider last year, I am more psyched and capable of working routes. The past week has been some serious work as i have hiked to the top of El Cap 4 times in 5 days to get my stash going and to work on the Salathe Head Wall. The Head Wall is probably the most striking line I have ever tried for 2 reasons; the first being the setting (3,000 feet off the deck and over hung) if that does not make your balls go to your throat than nothing will, the second reason is the crack itself is such a incredible splitter with great varied climbing. The pitch starts off as a techy 13a on razor edges(the worst part) then goes into a great stemming and layback, from here you go into a pumpy thin hands flared splitter to a hard left leaning finger section. The final pitch is a super cool finger crack with some powerful face moves to a pod then you must bust a v6-v7 to some extruding granite holds. I would have taken some shots but as my luck goes my camera broke two months after i bought it so all i have is video. I will try and shoot some vid of this and Golden Gate when we go up again to work it out from Monday to Wednesday.

Moisty pokets

2010-03-09T08:26:00.001-08:00

Climbing in a gym is a great thing to do in the winter for the convince and efficiency. One can knock out 20 routes in two to three hours; however, too much plastic can take its toll on the psych. This is where i am right now so i decided to say FUCK IT and head to AF for some climbing on real stone. The approach was snowy but there was a descent boot pack. At first glance of the wall i was amazingly psyched for the reason that the wall looked dry. Oh how i was wrong! standing under the wall there were large drops of water coming off and every route was wet. The warm up was soaked from head to toe so a lld it was and the climbing was good just wet. I then went to check out The Shinning and that was completely soaked as well. However, with my new attitude i said FUCK IT and got on it anyway. I figured out all the moves and the went pretty easy first try to the crux. I was perplexed for a minute as i was trying a ridiculous sequence that was most likely v9 because i thought a underling was off. once i used the under cling those moves went first try except for the final so called "low percentage move." The holds where ridiculously wet and i did not do that move but made the lock off so i am sure i can do it.

John making the approach

Mt. Temp

John warming up

I had to knock off an icicle that formed in one of the pockets on the route. Once i knocked it off there was still ice in the pocket though.

Da cliff

Angel of Fear round 2

2010-02-28T13:51:00.000-08:00

I was pretty bummed when Peter and I did not get to do Angel of Fear. So on 2/28 Miah, Pat, Travis and i got a early start by waking up at 5:30 and had a blast. This thing is so fun the first pitch had some bad ice with some good ice thrown in as well. Pat crushed it and it was a bit heady too. P2 was amazing to put it mildly. The roof features add some exposure when you have to traverse back left and make the climb that much better. I had to bail after Angel cuz i had to work at 4:30 but everyone else whent at did Automatic Control Theory in a giant 230 foot pitch pretty sick. Nice job everyone and i hope i cant get another lap on that beast before she falls down. Who knows if it will form again so i am glad Miah was there to shoot some great photos so we can remember how fun it was. Thank you Miah!

Me on the pillar P2

Pat crushing P1

Another pic of me on the Pillar P2

Starting off on the P2

Travis rapping down rad daggers eh

Sledding down

One of my best ideas ever was to bring a sled there cant be a better way to get down

Angel of Fear

2010-02-26T09:48:00.001-08:00

Peter and i went to Sanaquin Canyon 2/26 to try and squeeze in Angle of Fear before he left to Spain. This thing only comes in about once every ten years or so. The approach pitch was fine but the first real pitch was extremely chandeliered and total junk. Peter tried to climb the back side of the pillar because their was a heavy stream of water coming off the front of the pillar and he fell. At this point we said FUCK this and went to do candle stick. Candle stick was totally detached from the top and delaming with water flowing behind the ice. IT was scary as shit but i was able to get her done thank GOD.

Silly pointy climbing

2010-02-10T10:44:00.000-08:00

Miah, Jay, Travis, and i all went to Santaquin Canyon a week or so ago to shoot some mixed routes and hopefully the candle stick as well. The mixed climbing was good i did one route that has the word baghdad (M8+) somewhere in it. Then i tried another that was supposed to be M9+ but everything felt supper doable to the last five feet and there where not holds. I think you might have to traverse left. Here are some pics of both routes shot by the JBY (Jay Beyer) thanks Jay its nice when the photographers i go out with are nice enough to email me some shots to post! Cough Miah Cough Miah!

Creek again

2009-10-29T13:17:00.000-07:00

Miah and i went to Indian creek from the 23rd to the 25th. the weather is getting better every time i go down there. this makes me increasingly more psyched to go again.

23rd. went to Battle of the Bulge and tried digital readout and got spanked again that thing is way too hard. then i did disco machine gun and that route is supper fun.

24th went to the wall and and no fun at all

25th power wall- this wall is small but has many good shorter routes on the face including the classic power line. i tried really hard on power line and was lucky enough to onsight it very happy about that one. i then went for a walk and looked at ultimate crack this thing is sick. supper splitter and beautiful. the down side is that it is full on sand cuz no one gets on the thing but they should. i then got on power line again so Miah could shoot it and tore my finger off at least a full pad. this pissed me off but a bear helped to calm me back down and now its almost heeled so all is good.

Indian Creek Oct. 3-6

2009-10-20T10:10:00.000-07:00

Peter Vintoniv and i went to Indian Creek from Oct. 3-6th. We both had to work the night before so i got 2 hours of sleep and Peter had no sleep but slept the whole way down in the back of my van.

Oct. 3

Both of us had never been to the Wall before so we went there to check it out and did a super fun 12a finger corner to worm up and then headed over to learning to fly. it was a strange size for me my first knuckle was really rattly and i could not get my second knuckle in. on my second go i tried hard though and was almost to the foothold and fell out and ripped a huge chunk of my finger off. What a way to start a 4 day creek trip. next we got on the judge and saw a bolt next to a perfect nut placement WTF is wrong with people. i skipped the bolt and used the nut.

Oct. 4

cat wall we went up and got on burl dog which, is a beautiful line. Peter killed it i could not do it but would like to go back and do that line.

Oct. 5

4X4 wall-wormed up on 4X4 so good. then we got on hydraulic pump. this thing has a really powerfull start and then goes into .75 laybacking for ever. both of us didnt send so we went over to broken tooth to meet up with peters girlfriend and crew to play. we both did broken tooth and unbelievable super classic. then we went around to the front of the wall and i did rock lobster and peter did inflicter.

Oct. 6

Scarface-my finger blew up on mantel illness and i fell peter sent. then we got on the cleaner and i fell on the last hard move peter sent. there is another pointless bolt on this route i will give another WTF. then we went over to Desert Shield and i onsighted it amazingly enough after falling on everything else that day. then peter sent too. this route is all time and the best 12 i have done in the creek.

Desolation Marathon

2009-10-20T09:39:00.000-07:00

I ran the Desolation Marathon in the end of September. this was also my first marathon i have run. It started at the Brighton store and links up to the crest trail via scotts pass. It was a cold morning with puffiies defiantly being necessary. the race start was so casual i missed it. i was throwing on my hydration pack and then i hear a paper bag pop and thats it the time started. then my friend alex showed up so i gave him a quick run down of the race and then i started down big cottonwood canyon. i still had no idea how to get onto the crest trail so my plan was to stay with someone who knew the trail until that point and then run my pace. lucky on my way up Gardsmens i talked with a supper nice guy(sorry i forgot his name). he gave me the know on the course, which was kind of funny getting the beta while running the first few miles. once i got on Scotts pass i knew the way to dog lake so i turned on the pod and rocked my way to the first and only aid station. her i was informed that i was on Karl Meltzers pace but who knew if i could keep it up since i didnt even know where i was going. i chugged some water and kept running. the foliage was unbelievable with he vibrant yellow leaves all over the trail. once to dog lake the guessing game began with where to go. i was forced to stop at every sign to try and figure out where i was going. this next part was extremely overgrown and i had trouble keeping any type of pace through this section. luckily the colors were amazing and distracted me from the blister that had began to form on my left foot from the slanted trail. once i got through this section which was the most difficult so far because of its slightly uphill angle i was blessed with being at the eastern base of mount Raymond. this meant i was very close to the last 8 miles of leg pounding downhill running. when i first started going downhill i felt great, however, once about 4 miles went by my legs felt destroyed and every step was painful. after so many switchbacks i finally heard some music from the Millcreek inn and knew i was close and god damn it was about time. my final time was 3:33 which, is pretty good for that course i believe. My Sister and friend Miah was there and greeted me with a amazing Rouge nut brown ale mmmm so good thanks Miah. thank you Sis for driving me around and being the most supportive sister around even though you are in med school and dont have any time means a lot. i hung out for a few hours then i had to leave to take a shower and go to work.

Moose Knuckle!

2009-09-21T11:39:00.000-07:00

So, you see, i was thinking, ok enough i went to checkout the bottom portion of the desolation trail on Friday the (a fly is driving me nuts) 9/18. i made the grid over the ridge and was surprised by how overgrown the trail was in spots and other areas it was fine. Kind of weird but once i started to run down into the bowl and began the switchbacks up to another ridge i heard some rustling in the bushes. i looked to my left and i was about 30 feet from a monstrous moosey (i named him MaximousMoosimous and moosey will be called this from now on). MaximousMoosimous is a boy with horns and all, and he stared at me. this stare was not the nice googly eyed stare i like. this stare was full of rage, which looked similar to the spanish bullfighting, bull stare. so i added a little pip to my step and tried to put some acreage between me and MaximousMoosimous. just when i thought i was ok and in the clear i heard the same damn rustling again. Fucking, MaximousMoosimous was making up ground and he still had me in his bullfighting stare. at this point i put a whole lot more than some extra pip in my steep. this was "hammer time," I rallied up the switchbacks and got on to the ridge. i musta put the hurt on MaximousMoosimous. The rest was an enjoyable run to the point, where i turned around.

on the way back i was more nervous, for the reason that i thought MaximousMoosimous was going to be hiding and waiting for the right time to get on his rears and pound my precious face into he ground. on the way to the to my battle ground i came up with the fantastic idea of grabing myself a rock. Hells yeah, no moosey is going to punk my ass now not even the great MaximousMoosimous. Rocks are 1. heavey 2. can Konk like a sludge hammer 3. have points, giving them extra penetrating powers. i felt so much better now, so care free, the way that running should be (sorry for that gay line). Bullshit, who am i fooling i still felt like i was a gladiator about to enter the Colosseum to be slain. I made it to the bowl/ Colosseum and started to make my way down slowly, while trying to be as stealthly and silant as possible while running. For your information its not easy running with a 10 pound rock in one hand. It feels like you are extremely lopsided. After i make it down a few switcheroos i see it; BIG, DEEP, and right on the trail its MOOSE KNUCKLE! MaximuosMoosimous has walked down the trail, at this point all i can say is WTF. I do all i can and that is keep a healthy grip on my rock and continue my lopsided running down the trail, while staying alert to any rustling in the bushes. MaximousMoosimouses moose knuckles veer on and off the trail for the next two miles and then a hard swithback from right to left comes, and MaximousMoosimouses moose knuckles are off into the wilderness for good. thank god im safe, and then its time for the no more MaximousMoosimous dance. I was so happy at this point i did not even think twice about my bad ankle and over it goes, rolled for the i dont know 50th time this summer. That doesn't matter that much though im only 3 miles from being done.

Desolation trail

2009-09-14T14:58:00.000-07:00

I decided that since i was already in ok shape after doing the horseshoe traverse. I might as well keep running for two more weeks and do the Desolation marathon. Today was my first run on the trail and it was so much better than i could have hopped. It is a single track trail with wonderful Aspen trees that were changing colors. over the first few miles a fierce thunder storm rolled in and dropped some painful hail on me as well. this made the beginning even better cuz i am into shitty weather running. then as the miles went on the sun came out and dried my soaking wet cloths as well as lighting up the peaks. this added a nice beauty element to the mix of an already fantastic run. i ran a mile or mile and a half past desolation lake and then turned around. even though the running back was gradually uphill i felt great and had a negative split, which is always icing on the cake. this run got me that much more psyched for the marathon and i cant wait to boot up for the big day.

The Horse Shoe Traverse

2009-09-10T11:17:00.000-07:00

Last August i did the alpine traverse and was completely trashed afterwards i could barley walk and it took me 13 hours. After doing this i thought there was no way i could ever do the whole Horse Shoe Traverse: however, this summer i got really psyched to start training and make this thing happen. I started running the Pfeifferhorn and sections of the traverse a few times a week and mixed in some more casual trail running as well. One day after doing a section of the traverse from the Pfeifferhorn to Lone Peak and down Bells Canyon i sprained my ankle badly. This injury continued to haunt me while i rolled my ankle repeatedly on training runs to the point i thought i would not be able to do the traverse. finally it healed enough and i knew i was ready to give the traverse a shot so i stashed watter on the Pfeifferhorn and Superior and on Monday 9/7 i started at 3am. 10 min. in i got lost in the dark and went bush whacking up a sand slop for 2o min. and ended up having to retrace my steps back to the point i got lost in the first place. i almost threw in the towel right then. The rest of the way up to the SLC twins was easy going with no problems with route finding. the sun began to rise a few peaks after the twins and this was very nice and i was able to pick up the pace a bit with the increased visibility. i felt great after Superior and i took a five min. break to chug some gatorade and refill my bladder. this is where i could start running more because you are on a trail instead of boulder hopping on a ridge this is where i thought the easiest section would be; although, i was wrong. My knees started to become very sore and my hip, which had been an issue for a while was starting to really give me trouble. i struggled and my pace showed as i was slower than i had hoped on this section to hidden peak. once on hidden peak i meet my mother, father, and my friend Miah who where nice enough to support me by coming up and giving me some extra motivation. i had another gatorade, refueled my water, and took some advil for my knees and hip. then i was off and i felt great with the advil working wonders and alleviating all my pain i was able to focus on the running and i was able to move much faster than i had anticipated. The AF Twins went by easily along with Red and White Baldy. I made it to the Pfeifferhorn in 13.5 hours i was stoked. My knees began to become tender again but i was on the home stretch and was able to keep it off my mind. I increased the amount of Gu and Powerbars i was eating to help with my extra fatigued muscles. Once on thunder ridge i saw many mountain goats and in my tired state i found some amusement in yelling at them and they happened to be on the same route i was on going up South Thunder so i had a rabbit to help me keep pace. We actually went up South Thunder and down to the base of Big Horn together before the mountain goat decided (what a sissy) to take the easier route down and right into the upper Bells Bowl. I continued up Big Horn trying not to look up for the reason that this is steep but short so i figured keep my head down and keep on chugging. This seemed to work and i was up on Big Horn and climbing up Lone Peak quickly, which seems to always be a grueling part of the traverse when your legs are worked. Up on Lone Peak in 15.5 hours and my friend Peter and his girlfriend Jules were climbing. Peter was the one who actually got me into this ridge traversing and has made some fast times on section in the past. It was nice to hear a friendly voice after so many hours of seeing no one. Down i went trying to go as quickly as possible. The shoot i had gone down in the past was clear of snow, which sucked because it is easier to glissade down than it is to hike down a bowling alley of loose rocks and sand. I made it down and then began the boulder hopping. This always gets to me and mentally i just get to the point where i am just over it. I found the trail and worked my way down Bells Canyon and back to the road where my dad picked me up and took me home where a few family friends where hanging out at the camp fire. my mom had made some pasta and it tasted so damn good after 17 hours and 48 min. of running and eating Gu and bars. i topped it off with a Sierra Nevada Torpedo and some cake and ice cream my sister made. thank you so much family and friends for all the support and inspiration. i would not know what to do without you all. here is a map from google earth of the ridge. its so beautiful and close so go play on it and do the thing.